How to Tie a Shiney Hiney Caddis Pupa

Producer: Tim Flagler

About a year and a half ago, fellow video fly tier and Colorado guide Juan Ramirez showed me a super cool version of his Kryptonite Caddis, that incorporated a glass bead at the butt end of the fly. The bead is supposed to mimic a gas bubble which helps the pupa to rise to the water’s surface. This is a kind of a quick and dirty version of Juan’s pattern that I call the Shiney Hiney Caddis Pupa.

For a hook, I’m going to use a Lightning Strike SE3 in size 16. Plunger-style hackle pliers make hook handling a breeze and allows me to easily mash the barb in the jaws of my tying vise.

For the gas bubble, I’m going to use a Killer Caddis, midge-sized glass bead with a silver core. Having the hook in the hackle pliers allows me to troll through the beads and easily catch one. Still using the hackle pliers, I’ll get the assembly firmly secured in the jaws of my tying vise.

For tying thread, I’ve loaded a bobbin with a spool of UTC 70 Denier in dark brown. Get the thread started on the hook shank behind the bead and take a few wraps rearward before snipping off the excess tag. Continue taking thread wraps down the hook shank until your thread is located just rearward of what was the hook barb.

Slide the bead to this spot and take a wrap of tying thread from the back of the bead to the front to hold it in that position. Continue taking thread wraps forward up the hook shank to just shy of the original tie-in point.

The remainder of the fly’s abdomen is created using small, stretch round rib. An 8” length will make a few flies. Anchor one end of the material to the top of the hook shank with wraps of tying thread then continue taking thread wraps rearward as you stretch the round rib. Keep taking wraps all the way to the front edge of the glass bead then wind your thread forward to the initial tie-in point.

Start taking touching wraps with the rib material up the hook shank to create a translucent, segmented body on the fly. When you reach your tying thread, use it to firmly anchor the material, then snip the excess off close.

Although not absolutely necessary, a small drop of thin UV cure resin applied to this portion of the fly and spread out with a fine-tipped bodkin, helps to pull everything together in terms of look. It also greatly increases the fly’s durability. After an ample shot of UV light to cure the resin, you can continue tying the remainder of the fly. Relocate your tying thread up onto the abdomen so it hangs a short distance in front of the hook point.

A single rusty dun CDC feather is used to imitate the pupa’s legs and antennae. Pull down on the lower fibers to isolate the tip of the feather then snip that tip off to form a small, triangular tie-in anchor. Use wraps of tying thread to bind the stem to the near side of the hook, then continue taking wraps to smooth out the area. Reach for your favorite pair of hackle pliers and use them to get hold of the butt end of the CDC feather. Start taking wraps with the feather to create a fuzzy, swept-back collar on the fly, 2 or 3 turns should be plenty. Use your tying thread to firmly anchor the feather’s stem, then snip the excess butt end off close. Take a few more thread wraps to channel all the CDC fibers rearward.

Brown rabbit fur dubbing is used for the thorax and head of the fly. Pluck just a small amount from the packet or dispenser. Use the dubbing to create a slender inch-long noodle on your tying thread then start taking wraps with the noodle to build up a slightly bulbous thorax on the fly. Ideally you want to end up with bare thread at the back edge of the hook eye.

Reach for your whip finish tool and use it to do a 4 or 5 turn whip finish, seat the knot well and snip or cut your tying thread free. If the CDC fibers are too long, you can shorten them by tearing the tips off with your fingernails.

And that’s the Shiney Hiney Caddis Pupa. A ton of thanks goes to Juan on this one, I think the glass bead really puts the pattern over the top.