Hindu Kush: Paradise Lost

Jonathan Ledgard transports us to hidden geographic anomaly in the Hindu Kush, a valley called the Ajar, the hunting grounds of the Afghan king. This is a place where armies feared to go, but where the king once hunted snow leopards and steppe eagles. That Mr. Ledgard took along his fly rod to a land where 3 walnuts is a fine gift is pretty remarkable. In the Atlantic Monthly online.