How to Tie a Brite Butt Zebra Midge

Producer: Tim Flagler

Zebra midges with bright or hot butts work incredibly well and are nothing new. This particular one, however, has a couple of minor tweaks that I feel make it especially effective.

The first is a short-shank, wide gap, size 20 jig hook from Fulling Mill. When paired with a 3/32” black, slotted tungsten bead, it makes for a small, heavy fly with an ample hook gap. Begin by inserting the point of the hook into the small hole of the bead and working the bead up onto the shank. You can then get the assembly firmly secured in the jaws of your tying vise. Make sure the squared-off end of the slot points downward as the bead rests behind the hook eye.

For thread, UTC 70 Denier in black is a good choice, mainly because it’s so easy to cord and uncord. Get the thread started on the hook shank immediately behind the bead and take a few wraps rearward before snipping off the excess tag. End with your thread positioned right at the back edge of the bead. Once again make sure the square end of the slot points down.

.015 lead-free, round wire is used to add weight, help stabilize the bead and contribute some taper to the body of the fly. Insert the end of the wire into the back of the bead and take thread wraps to secure it. Once the wires’s secured, start taking wraps with it between the bead and your tying thread. Pushing up on the tying thread helps to keep the wire wraps sandwiched close together. After 5 or 6 turns, start taking wraps of tying thread to secure the wire to the top of the hook shank. As you wrap rearward, tilt the wire up and down until it breaks off, leaving a short ramp down to the shank. Take wraps of tying thread over top of the wire, then back down to further lock everything in place. End with your tying thread all the way back at the start of the hook bend.

The second little tweak to this pattern is the use of pink Glo-Brite fluorescent floss. The stuff really pops. Orange and chartreuse also work well. Snip a 4” length free from the spool. With an inch-and-a-half or so hanging beyond the hook bend, secure the floss to the shank with a couple tight turns of tying thread. Then advance your thread forward to in front of the floss. Start taking wraps with the forward portion of the floss to build up a slightly bulbous, little butt on the fly. Don’t worry too much about length at this point. When things are looking good, secure the floss with a few wraps of tying thread then snip the excess off close.

Bring the rearward pointing portion forward over top of the wraps and secure it with a few turns of tying thread. Take thread wraps rearward to shorten the length of the butt, if necessary. Puling the floss over in this manner prevents the wraps of floss from slipping down the hook bend and unraveling. Keep taking thread wraps up the fly, binding the floss down as you go. When you reach the back edge of the bead, pull the excess floss up and trim it off close. Take wraps of tying thread rearward to the back edge of the wire weight.

Small, silver Ultra wire is used to rib and segment the body of the fly. Break or snip a 4” length free from the spool. Place one end of the wire along the underside of the fly and take thread wraps to secure it back to the butt. Then wrap forward to the bead. Using wraps of tying thread, do your best to add a slight taper to the body of the fly. Once things are looking pretty good, give your bobbin a counterclockwise spin to uncord and flatten the thread. You can then take wraps with it to fill in any low spots on the body. You may need to do this a couple times in order to really smooth things out.

Get hold of the silver wire and start making open spiral wraps with it over top of the tapered body, 5 or 6 turns usually looks pretty good. At the back edge of the bead, use tight wraps of tying thread to firmly anchor the wire, then brace the fly with the nozzle of your bobbin and helicopter the wire to break it off close.

Although not essential, I think a sparse collar of black rabbit fur really adds something to this pattern. Pluck just the smallest amount free from the packet. Use the dubbing to create a short, slender noodle on your tying thread. Take wraps with the noodle to build up a fuzzy little collar on the fly. Keep it small. With the collar complete, reach for your whip finish tool and use it to do a 4 or 5 turn whip finish, seat the knot well and snip or cut your tying thread free.

A small drop of head cement, or here Sally Hansen Hard as Nails, applied to the thread wraps at the back edge of the bead will ensure they don’t come unraveled. Once the adhesive sinks in and dries, your Brite Butt Zebra Midge is ready to fish.