Pete Bodo is a principal outdoors columnist for The New York Times. He is a senior editor at Tennis magazine and the author of several books, including The Atlantic Salmon Handbook.
A HOST OF OTHER birds began twittering and complaining as the light improved. Another mayfly spinner drifted under the alders and disappeared in a whirlpool with an audible pop. Two vehicles were parked like toys left in the campground overnight. One, which had arrived in the middle of the night, was a maroon-and-gray pickup of uncertain vintage, with a few...