Alaska's Katmai Wilderness National Park

“I made my headquarters on the Kulik River — a small waterway famed for the athleticism of its rainbows and, later in the season, for its prodigious salmon runs. The river demands careful wading because it has a gravelly bottom that can quickly give way, with consequences that may range from soggy to fatal. But, proceeding cautiously on my first foray, I heaved a three-inch-long jointed leech imitation into the river.” Peter Kaminsky fishes the Kulik and finds that he must challenge himself to not catch fish. In The New York Times.