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“Can I Repair a Fly Rod in the Field?”

by Philip Monahan

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Question: Pretty much every rod comes with a guarantee, but if you break a rod while on a float trip or something, is there any way to repair it—even temporarily—in the field so you can keep on using it?

Alex G., West Lafayette, IN

Fly Rod RepairAnswer: Before I started guiding in Alaska, I had never broken a rod in my life. That first summer, I broke three: two on tail-hooked sockeyes and one on a willow branch. After I busted a 9-weight at the first ferrule (totally my fault, by the way), I called the customer service number at L.L. Bean from the radio phone in the lodge and explained my situation. The agent’s reply when she heard my story is still my favorite customer-service response of all time. “We’d better FedEx you another one!” she said enthusiastically.

While that did give me a warm, fuzzy feeling inside, it still meant that I wouldn’t have a 9-weight for about three days. I got a better angling outcome when the tip of my 6-weight, which was hanging out the back of a johnboat, snagged a willow branch. The top two inches had broken off cleanly, but the line had kept the broken piece from falling in the water. My fellow guide, Gordon Gracey, saw my stricken look and said, “No problem.” He broke out a lighter and held it under the tip-top guide on the broken piece until the glue melted enough that he could separate the guide from the graphite. Then he jammed the tip-top onto the tip of the remaining rod, lined it up with the other guides, and held it there for a minute. When he was confident it was reasonably stuck, he dipped it in the cool water to reset the glue.

“Voila!” he announced, handing the rod back to me. I fished with it that way for the rest of the summer.

To ask what other in-the-field repairs were possible, I called Jim Logan at the Orvis rod shop, where they see thousands of broken rods every year. When I asked him about field repairs, he laughed.

“The tip-top trick is really the only repair that actually works well,” he said, and he recommends that you carry an extra tip-top and some glue any time you’re going on a long trip where you won’t have access to a fly shop. But if a rod breaks anywhere below the first 3 or 4 inches, you’re really out of luck, he says.

Logan says he’s heard of anglers creating the male end of a spigot ferrule out of a stick, but he doubts it would hold up to any real pressure. When I asked him if you could simply take out the broken piece of a 6-piece rod and just use five pieces, he hemmed and hawed a little.

“Your problem would be that the male ferrule would be too small, but you could build up its diameter with duct tape to create a snug fit.”

No doubt, the resulting rod would not cast as well as it had before, but such a repair might get you through the rest of the day. You’d be wise to check the ferrule quite often.

Smart anglers bring two rods whenever they can, and Logan says that, with a little jiggling and arranging, you can get two rods in almost any single-rod tube. All you have to do is put one butt-section in grip-down, and the other grip-up. You may have to offset the stripping guides, as well, to get all the pieces to fit. Then, if you are unlucky enough to break a rod, you’ve got a backup ready to go.

A Quick Tip-Top Fix

  1. Trim and clean the broken end of the rod where you plan to stick the tip-top. Get rid of any ragged pieces of graphite, and, if possible, file the break flat across the top.
  2. Hold a lighter or a candle under the base of the tip-top guide on the broken piece until you feel the guide start to loosen.
  3. Remove the tip-top from the broken piece.
  4. If you have any kind of glue, squirt it into the base of the tip-top and immediately stick it on the cleaned end of the rod.
  5. Quickly line up the tip-top with the other guides on the rod.
  6. Hold the tip-top in place until it no longer moves when you twist it.
  7. Put the rod tip and tip-top in slack water close to sure to set the glue.
MidCurrent Fly Fishing
Phil Monahan is a former Alaskan guide and was the long-time editor of American Angler magazine. He's now a columnist for MidCurrent and writes and edits the fly-fishing blog at You can email your fly fishing questions to us at
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  • okieflier

    I learned this tip-top repair from a fellow angler while fishing at the North Fork of the White River in Arkansas. I had fallen and broke the top two inches of the tip off. This happened 4 years ago and I still use the rod today. What was once a 8’6″ rod is now 8’4″ and it still catches lots of fish. And it was not a $800 rod either; more like $80.00. No one knows the difference but my wife and I.

  • John Davenport

    In another forum I read that to cut pieces of a broken graphite rod B to use as sleeves to mend broken rod A, you should go to an archery shop. I happened on a nearby shop in Denver where the owner & his sons also happened to be fly casters. They suggested I use pieces of the graphite arrow as a sleeve. With a couple strands of thread over the end of each piece, I built up the rod to slip tightly into the sleeve just as I do when I epoxy a reel seat over a fly rod blank. They cut me a half dozen pieces of graphite arrow in various lengths ( to take along. I used a tiny tin foil pack of epoxy from a rod builders web site. The sleeves, thread,& epoxy will now reside in my wader pocket with the wader repair UV glue. So far the sleeve has held. I’ll post this on my blog with details when I get back from the East Coast, I have a good photo of the rod bend before the break that I’ll try to duplicate after the break. I’m hoping the sleeve envokes the same action as an additional ferrule would. All the rods I’ve broken have been in the upper half and I’m guessing the graphite arrow inner diameter could have accommodated them.

  • Doug Jeffries

    Years ago Flip Pallot had an article in one of the fly fishing mags about a rod / reel repair kit to bring on trips. It included spare tip top, spare guide, thread, ferrule cement, tiny screws and springs for reel drags, etc. Fit into an empty film canister I think.
    I’ve repaired a few rod guides that were pulled off. Use a sharp pocket knife to carefully remove any remaining epoxy from the guide site. Be careful not to cut into the scrim of the rod, a gentle scraping motion is better than digging in like a chisel. If you have some tape you can cut a thin strip and tape the guide in place in preparation for the next step. Using 7X or anything up to 5X tippet, cut a 6 inch piece and tie it into a long loop. Set it aside. Next start winding the tippet onto the rod an eighth inch below the foot of the guide (if you don’t have tape, just start winding tippet about where the guide goes). Wind the tippet so it wraps over the end, trapping it against the rod. Once you have about 4 or 5 wraps trapping the loose end of tippet you can cut off the remaining end. Continue winding tippet in close wraps up onto the foot of the guide (if you didn’t have tape, simple hold the guide in place until a few wraps of tippet secure it in place). Now fetch that loop you made earlier and hold it against the rod blank, loop end extending past the direction you are winding the tippet. Continue winding the tippet over the guide foot and the loop of mono until you reach the guide ring. Try to keep your tippet wraps as close together as possible. Once you’ve completed the wrap, trap the tippet wraps by pressing a finger against them. Clip the tippet leaving yourself about 4 inches to spare. Pass this 4 inch loose end through the mono loop you trapped under the tippet. Now, without releasing your finger from the tippet wraps, pull the loop until it snugs up tight against the tippet winding. Snip off the end of the tippet as close as you can. Then pull the mono loop the rest of the way, pulling the end of the tippet underneath the windings. If you have some SuperGlue or other non-tacky glue you can put a drop or two on the windings to help secure them and keep them from loosening. Don’t use Aqua Seal or something that remains tacky because you’ll get it on your fly line.